It’s not the town that’s so very beautiful but the landscapes around are magnificent. Pristine, snow-capped Andes to the west represent the border of Chile. We flew in on an a local holiday and it was a sunny, warm day with the sparkling glacial Lake Nahuel Huapi. The Swiss alpine-style architecture and chocolate shops seal its popularity and charm. It’s a ski center in the winter and hiking destination in the summer. We planned for 5 nights and we filled each day exploring the hills and the lake in our little rental car on rutted, bumpy asphalt.

Our hotel was sited right on the lake a 10-minute walk to the the town center. Our spacious room with its wall of floor-to-ceiling windows was delightful for observing the weather patterns with everything from flat calm to roiling waves. A couple floors below us was a heated indoor infinity pool which I took full advantage of. The restaurant also offered splendid vistas but dining here was complicated with its booking policies.

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We had a few recommended dining options. High on everyone’s list was El Boliche de Alberto, a local favorite; and, indeed, when we arrived just after it opened at 8pm we snagged the last table. Everyone was in the process of ordering; it was buzzy and bustling. The cow-hide menu was simple: numerous cuts of beef, plus a lamb, pork and chicken option, all cooked on an open fire. Salads consisted of: lettuce, radicchio, carrot or tomato – but not together. A mound of “papa fritas” (french fries) was soon on every table.

The drive west along the Circuito Chico was an unforgettable experience. The 60-kilometre scenic route meanders along the shoreline of Nahuel Huapi Lake. It took longer than expected as there were so many enchanting scenic overlooks.

At Puerto Panuelo we boarded the lovely Modesta Victoria, an 87-year-old wooden passenger ship, which plies the clear waters of the lake to the Bosque de Arrayanes, a National Forest with a scenic boardwalk through a grove of cinnamon-bark Myrtle trees. Next stop, Isla Victoria, characterized by magnificent cypress forests and ancient rock paintings of past inhabitants.

Our third day dawned clear and calm. We took a drive north along the ever-present Lake Nahuel Huapi on the Seven Lakes Route. The lengthy drive to see all seven lakes would entail a full day in the car, so instead we stopped in the pretty town of Villa la Angostura for another hike. We checked with the tourist info office for directions but here our communication skills faltered and we had to wing it to find Mirador Belvedere. It was a challenge just to find the trailhead given the hidden rudimentary road signs. The hike was on private land so we paid to park in the middle of a dilapidated settlement and then began a mile-long uphill trudge to the viewpoint, followed by an undulating return along narrow, steep paths through thick forest. A worthwhile experience.

On another visit along the Circuito we hiked up Mt. Llao Llao, a pinnacle of 3,400 ft. From the peak, we observed weather heading for us so we finished our lunch and made tracks back to the car. Within minutes, a squall let loose.

Bariloche was ultimately our favorite locale in Argentina. It was great to spend more time in one place getting to know it a bit more. From here we flew south to Southern Patagonia.