Mendoza is the heartland of wine production, boasting 70-80% of Argentina’s wine in a high-altitude desert at the foot of the Andes in western Argentina. Humidity is minimal, so irrigation comes from Andes snowmelt. The greater city of one million is the country’s fourth-largest. Tree-lined streets, expansive plazas, and a network of irrigation canals provide cooling shade in the desert climate.

Although it originated in France, Malbec grapes struggled with the variable climate and since 1865 Argentina has become synonymous with Malbec, producing about 75% of the world’s supply. Argentine Malbec is known for its deep purple color and lush, fruit-forward character. An altitude of 3,000 to 5,000 feet provides intense sunlight for ripening, while cool nights preserve acidity and freshness. Malbec is a natural match for Argentina’s famous beef and pairs well with chorizo, game meats and hard cheeses.

The air journey from Salta took us through Buenos Aires and a long layover finally got us to Mendoza early evening. Our home for four nights, the Hualta Hotel, caters to a clientele here to enjoy wines and they offer a wine-tasting every afternoon for guests. Still feeling rocky, I’m not up for dinner or anything but bed. It’s Joe’s turn to dine alone in the hotel restaurant, La Cabrera.

Our first full day here is unplanned, so we mostly wander around town to absorb the culture. It is quite lovely with so many trees and (currently dry) water courses running between the streets and footpaths. Plazas and parks were plotted every few intersections. The air is so incredibly dry, I find it difficult to swallow. We decide to dine at the hotel since La Cabrera is a nationally known restaurant we intended to try in Buenos Aires. We agree to share an order of pork ribs with a Caesar salad. The ribs don’t turn out to be outstanding but I don’t have much appetite this particular evening anyway.

In the morning we are met after breakfast by Mattias who transports us to Bodega Bandini for a private tasting and bike tour. Laura, our guide, got us set up on decent Trek bikes but the geometry just didn’t work for either of us or riding on the gravel roads was really uncomfortable. I expected a 10-mile ride along country roads, but I would be surprised if we rode a mile. However, as unpleasant as the bikes were, we are glad it was so short. The property is really pretty, however, and views from the vineyards and wine-making facility are lovely. Wine tasting is in the architecturally beautiful home of the Vintner’s Table, but we thought it a mistake that this building wasn’t constructed with Andes views in mind. Our tasting was very nicely presented and everything was described beautifully. I didn’t really enjoy tasting so early in the day, especially with my parched throat. Mattias returns us to Mendoza dropping us off at San Martin Park so we can walk back to the hotel. As the temperature climbs into the 80s (high 20C) we stop for a little lunch and cool drink at a kiosk cafe. It’s a languid afternoon and evening. Dinner is a non-event.

Our third say is devoted to a full day of wine-tasting. Joe is prepared to take this on, but I’m still feeling too out of sorts to indulge. Nevertheless, we were booked into a tour with three other guests, all from Buenos Aires. Our first stop is Trapiche Vineyards. The battle for the best bodega is a tough one, but Trapiche puts up a good fight, and since its foundation in 1883, this winery has been at the forefront of innovation in its wines. While the imposing stone winery and its associated buildings may have the appearance of ancient industry, Trapiche uses modern technologies to craft its famous wines. We are taken off for a private tour in English which is very thorough. Tasting of five wines include overly generous pours. Trapiche is the largest wine producer in Argentina and has a worldwide name.

Our next stop was Antigal and we enjoyed this experience more. It’s a small production vineyard with boutique wines. Another hisoric winery building from 1897 that has been modernized but preserves the character of the original building. They use gravity-flow winemaking, mimizing pumps, and age in underground cellars. It was a beautiful set-up and their signature wine, UNO, was enjoyed by Joe and the others in our group.

The afternoon is spent at an olive oil ranch, Pan y Oliva, where we enjoyed a 3-course lunch with wine pairings. We got to know our tour mates and guide and had the best meal of our visit to Mendoza.

Given our lazy, long lunch we needed no dinner our last night in Mendoza. Instead we took a long walk, visiting a few other green spaces. During the middle of the night I experience a fright when I wake with an painful earache combined with my inability to swallow. A couple medics are summoned by the hotel reception and they believe I have an infection and give me an injection and antibiotics. It calms things so allow me to sleep. In the morning I try eating soft foods. Before our flight we take a walk to Plaza Espana. Here we encounter our one and only scam artist in the country. Joe catches on before the young woman can accomplish her mission – whatever it was – but when she realizes we have figured her out, she reacts in a way that tells us he was correct in his assessment of a likely bad outcome.

Unfortunately, the stars conspired against us in Mendoza. When we arrived, I was not at my best, still feeling the effects of what was probably altitude and/or heat related illness in Jujuy combined with the low humidity in both Jujuy and Mendoza. Given we live near some of the best wine regions in the world, (Napa, Sonoma, and the Yarra Valley) it’s hard not to compare them with Mendoza. If not the wines, certainly our scenic delights surpass this region. It would be hard to judge the Malbecs themselves with only one of us tasting; we actually drank more Malbec in other parts of Argentina. Originally, we planned to have a day in the Andes, seeing Aconcagua Peak, the highest mountain in the Andes but somehow it fell off the radar which was probably a blessing because it was going to be a full day in a car and at high altitudes. We neither needed or wanted either of those at this point. The bike tour was a non-event and one of the disappointments here. We didn’t mind the city of Mendoza but the region is really focused on wine and extreme sports. It was too dry and hot to fully enjoy it.

Flew from Salta to Mendoza